CAMPING THE KIWI WAY

On the road less travelled, down double-digit highways, which wind alongside the mighty Waikato and follow the western and southern shores of Lake Taupo, I find some of my favourite freedom camping sites.

You loop off SH1 before Tirau onto Horahora Road to travel from Arapuni to Whakamaru. The Waikato River Trail has multiple camping and cycling options. Every one is unique and beautiful, with free camping.

The route links into SH32 to get around Lake Taupo via SH41 to Tūrangi. Little Waipa and Arapuni are top spots at the northern end.

Back country dairy lands follow the mighty Waikato south on roads that have very little traffic compared to the central, SH1 route.

This rich dairy farm country offers splendid scenery along the river, with massive stations like Hodderville just south of Putāruru proving that we can grow some of the best grass in the world. It’s a calming pallette of blue and green as far as the eye and sky can reach.

It’s common to wake up in one of the many riverside campgrounds to see thick mists rising while gliding swans and ducks split the silken surface of the wide, dark water. Jones Landing is a particularly peaceful, smaller site. There is a playground, shelter, gas barbecues, boat launch, toilet and shower facilities, recycling bins and everything available for day visitors and campers. The sites link beautiful walk and cycle trails.

Camping permits are free of charge by applying online for a maximum of four weeks stay. Short-term stays of up to two consecutive nights are ok for all vehicles, tents, bicycles without a permit.

A top spot for water sports, kayaking and paddleboarding is the largest site, Whakamaru Reserve at the southern end. There’s tons of space alongside the lake behind the dam. All are water-view sites providing for all types of camping.

From here you can head towards Kinloch and Acacia Bay to reach one of the most stunning free DoC camps in the North Island — Whakaipo Bay — on the northern edge of Lake Taupo.

We try to spend a night at the Durhams Point Reserve on the way there. It’s a compact sheltered camp ground with a few lovely, more private sites.

Then leaving Whakaipo head back west to the beautiful SH32 around the western shores of Lake Taupo to meet SH41 for the Kuratau to Tūrangi section. You’ll see a variety of landscapes on this route from ancient volcanic rock outcrops, and forestry, to native bush fringes around the lake at Pukawa and steaming geothermal activity at Tokaanu.

It’s always a joy to take this loop off SH1 before tackling the Desert Road to head south. n Photos ©2024 Bette Cosgrove

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