CAMPING THE KIWI WAY

Winter is not the best time to visit Farewell Spit from a bird point of view, but I was there, so I took the tour anyway, and it was spectacular.

The spit is 25km long, and a highly protected area. Only the first 4km is open for public access. It’s a world-recognised bird sanctuary for about 90 species, though most birds decamp to the northern hemisphere for our winter. There’s the long beach on the outer side, high dunes along its spine, and shifting swamps and lakes on the inward side. I imagine it is not just the variety of habitat that is good for the birds, but the lack of people, dogs and other predators.

The 4wd bus started on the inside of the spit, skirting inner mudflats, until turning down… a winding track across the spine of the spit to our first stop on the outer side. The 4WD really matters on the dunes and the beach.

We got to explore the rock formations and admire the nikau palms that thrive in this microclimate. This beach is open to the public, but you have to walk there.

The sand defeated the 4WD: we had to get out and push to get back on our way.

It’s a long flat beach. Long. Flat.

Birds. 

Dunes. 

The lighthouse; there in the distance; the orange dot.

The spit got its first lighthouse in 1870. There is still a light house, but it is now automated. 

The light house keepers’ houses are still there, we had our lunch in one, and conservation workers stay in the others. One of the early lighthouse keepers carried out soil, bag by bag, to create his garden. Macrocarpa and pine were the windbreak tree of choice. A lot of grass and green from that original garden effort.

Heading back we got to stop and climb a sand dune. 

From the top of the sand dune you can see the swamp and lakes on the inner side of the spit, and beyond to the hills on the other side of Golden Bay, around Port Tarakohe. 

It was a long way back down to the bus.

Then it is a long and flat drive again, following our earlier wheel tracks to be sure to avoid any quick or soft sand.

Our finale took us westwards, to Cape Farewell.

Then we returned to base in Collingwood, where I had a prime spot at the campground: a winter bonus. ◼️

Images ©2024 Miriam Richardson